What do professionals use for pest control

What do professionals use for pest control

Skip consumer sprays and granules. If you’re serious about solving an infestation–roaches in the basement, wasps in the siding, or mice behind the dishwasher–you need tools licensed technicians actually rely on. For example, demand CS isn’t something you’ll find in a hardware store, but it’s a microencapsulated insecticide that stays active for months. That’s what pros use when they want long-term residual effects without constant reapplication.

Gel baits, especially for ants and cockroaches, work differently than sprays. Instead of killing on contact, they rely on foraging behaviour and colony sharing. A single application near a food source might take a few days to show results, but it works deeper. Some might call it slow, but that delay is exactly how it wipes out nests. Maxforce and Advion are two of the most trusted options, though there’s always debate about which performs better under certain conditions–temperature, humidity, bait fatigue.

Rodents? Snap traps still matter. But newer enclosed bait stations, especially tamper-resistant ones, are now standard around homes and commercial buildings alike. Inside them, technicians place blocks like Contrac or FirstStrike–not random poisons, but second-generation anticoagulants that are extremely specific in how they act. Caution matters here; these are restricted-use for a reason. Even trained pros double-check placement in pet-accessible zones. I’ve seen techs map entire crawlspaces just to place five stations correctly.

Then there’s application technique. It’s not just what’s used, but how and where. Cracks in concrete, wall voids behind outlets, gaps under siding–those are the real battlegrounds. A fogger won’t reach those spots. A compressed air sprayer with a pin stream nozzle, though? That will. It’s more surgical than flashy, but that’s kind of the point.

Commonly Used Insecticides, Baits, and Traps in Commercial Pest Management

Commonly Used Insecticides, Baits, and Traps in Commercial Pest Management

Skip the general sprays from hardware stores. In large-scale service work, the most relied-upon insecticides are targeted formulations like microencapsulated pyrethroids–deltamethrin and lambda-cyhalothrin come up a lot. They don’t just hit on contact; they stick to surfaces and keep working for weeks, which matters in places with high turnover like restaurants or rental units.

Gel baits? Still the go-to for cockroach control. Advion and Maxforce are widely used, but not blindly. The trick is rotating them. Roaches adapt faster than expected, so pros often switch actives–indoxacarb to fipronil, sometimes even hydramethylnon. Placement matters too. Bait inside cracks where moisture builds works better than a line behind a fridge. You’d be surprised how often that gets overlooked.

For ant issues, bait stations using borate or thiamethoxam are common, especially when colonies split after repellent sprays. Professionals don’t flood trails with liquid killers; they slow-feed the colony until it collapses. Some even combine slow-acting baits with non-repellent perimeter sprays like Termidor SC (fipronil again) to push ants back without triggering bud splitting.

Rodents? It’s never just traps or poison–usually both. Snap traps still dominate for monitoring. But for mass reduction, anticoagulant blocks like bromadiolone or difethialone are used in tamper-proof stations. Indoors, mechanical traps win–no one wants the smell of a dead rat stuck inside a wall. Outdoors, tracking powders or non-toxic detection blocks might be placed first just to confirm activity. Every technician has a preference–some swear by T-Rex traps, others prefer the classic wooden snap.

If you want a detailed breakdown of what’s typically deployed, The Pest Control Guy on pearltrees.com has some real-world examples from Calgary jobs. There’s also this page–cowboysrideforfree.com about The Pest Control Guy–which touches on how choices shift depending on season and structural layout. Especially basements. Always basements.

No single method does the job alone. It’s layers, adjustments, and honestly, trial and error–though backed by years of pattern recognition. You learn fast what works in a bakery won’t hold up in a warehouse. Or what kills carpenter ants in Airdrie won’t help with pavement ants in downtown Calgary.

How Licensed Technicians Choose Products Based on Pest Type and Environment

Start with the target species. If it’s a German cockroach issue in a restaurant kitchen, for instance, a gel bait with hydramethylnon or fipronil usually gets picked–not just for its active ingredient but for how it performs in confined, humid zones where bait stations won’t fit. In contrast, for ant trails along baseboards in an office, a non-repellent spray like indoxacarb might be chosen. It’s slow-acting, yes, but the delayed response lets the ants carry it back to the colony, which matters more than immediate kill in most indoor infestations.

Now, the site itself affects the whole decision. In multi-unit residential buildings, using a residual dust in voids–like those with deltamethrin–is common. That stuff stays put and doesn’t leach into shared air space, which cuts down complaints. But the same wouldn’t be used in a food processing plant, where any residual product risks contamination. There, technicians often lean on mechanical options like pheromone traps and targeted aerosol treatments with short re-entry times.

Weather matters too. Outdoor treatments in Calgary winters don’t behave the same way they would in June. Cold slows insect metabolism, so faster-acting compounds like pyrethrins might not work as expected. Instead, a tech might switch to formulations that cling better to surfaces–microcapsules, for example–or delay applications altogether until a thaw exposes active nesting sites.

There’s also the issue of resistance. Bed bugs in older high-rise buildings have often seen pyrethroids many times over. So if they’re still showing up, most techs won’t even bother with those. They’ll go straight to chlorfenapyr or maybe combine heat treatment with a non-residual contact spray. It’s not just the species–it’s the history of what’s been used before and whether it’s still working.

Personal safety and tenant concerns come into play, too. In homes with pets or small children, the use of bait stations–especially tamper-resistant ones–is a common fallback. But not just any bait. It has to be attractive enough to outcompete crumbs under the stove, which is harder than it sounds. Technicians often switch brands or formulations not because the old one didn’t “work,” but because it worked somewhere else and not here.

No one-size-fits-all formula exists. It’s always a bit of back and forth. What worked at one site last month might flop at another. That’s why selection isn’t just about product labels or active ingredients–it’s part pattern recognition, part trial and error, and part just knowing the building and its people. That instinct, more than anything, guides the final call.

Safety Protocols and Application Techniques for Professional Use

Always wear chemical-resistant gloves and a fitted respirator when handling aerosols, dusts, or concentrates. Goggles with side protection are also a must–splashes from diluted formulas can cause permanent eye damage, even at low concentrations.

Before starting any treatment, check for proper ventilation. If airflow is limited, don’t assume it’s safe just because the label says “low odour.” Vapours can linger. Use portable fans or open windows where possible, especially in basements and crawlspaces.

Mix only what’s needed for the job. Over-preparing solution creates waste and increases the risk of accidental exposure. Any leftover mix should never be poured down drains. Store it in labelled containers, out of reach from children or pets–locked if possible. I’ve seen technicians forget this step, and the consequences can be serious.

Stick to targeted application. Avoid general broadcasting unless absolutely necessary. For instance, use gel baits inside switch plates or under cabinetry instead of spraying around food prep areas. It’s slower, but far safer and more precise. In many cases, dusts like boric acid work better behind wall voids than liquid treatments. Just don’t overdo it–more isn’t always better.

Don’t skip the re-entry interval listed on the product label. Even low-toxicity formulations require time to settle. If you’re treating commercial kitchens or child-care spaces, document your timings. Auditors or health inspectors might ask for proof.

As for outdoor use, wind speed should be below 10 km/h. Anything stronger and you risk drift onto nearby vegetation–or worse, into open windows. Use low-pressure nozzles for perimeter spraying and angle the wand downwards to keep runoff out of storm drains.

Never assume that what’s safe for one species works for all. Products rated for ants might be toxic to fish or birds if misapplied near water sources. Always read the environmental hazard section on the label. I’ve heard of treatments near bird feeders wiping out songbird populations–that’s avoidable with the right precautions.

Lastly, keep records. Track the name of the chemical, concentration, site, weather conditions, and application method. If there’s a complaint, this becomes your reference. Without it, you’re guessing–and that’s not good enough when liability’s involved.

Q&A:

What types of insecticides are most commonly used by licensed pest control technicians?

Licensed professionals often use residual insecticides such as bifenthrin, deltamethrin, or fipronil for perimeter and structural treatments. These products leave a long-lasting chemical barrier on surfaces, which continues to work after application. In sensitive environments, technicians may prefer insect growth regulators (IGRs) that disrupt the development of pests like cockroaches or fleas without posing risk to mammals.

Are bait stations more suitable for indoor or outdoor pest control?

Bait stations are versatile and can be used both indoors and outdoors, but their design and contents differ depending on the location. Indoors, gel baits and small tamper-resistant stations are often used for ants and cockroaches. Outdoors, larger bait stations are deployed around structures to control rodents or invasive ant species, minimizing risk to non-target animals and children.

How do technicians choose between using a spray, dust, or foam formulation?

The choice depends on pest behavior and the structure being treated. Dusts like diatomaceous earth or silica are ideal for voids, wall crevices, and electrical outlets where pests hide. Sprays are used for surface treatments, baseboards, and entry points. Foams are chosen when deep penetration is needed, such as in wall voids where carpenter ants or termites may nest. The goal is to apply the product where the pest lives and travels.

Do professionals ever use natural or low-toxicity options instead of synthetic chemicals?

Yes, especially in schools, hospitals, and organic-certified facilities. Technicians may use products containing boric acid, pyrethrins derived from chrysanthemum flowers, or botanical oils like clove and rosemary. These options can be combined with mechanical methods such as exclusion, vacuuming, or trapping as part of an integrated pest management (IPM) plan.

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